Snapshots in sepia: Parts VI and VII

VI

Along, our next stop, greeted us with the familiar bustle of a busy town; and after the wilderness and desolation of Tuting, seemed like a much-needed relief. Our intial plan was to take the next available transport out of Along and head to another jaw-dropping destination --- Mehchuka. However, by then the election campaign was gearing up with full gusto, so much so that the hotel where we had checked into in Along was full beyond its gills, block-booked by election camapaigneers for the next month or so. With a possibility of being stranded in a remote place looming large, we dropped the idea of going to Mehchuka and decided to move towards Guwahati from where we were to take the flight back to Kolkata.

Being the district headquarters of the West Siang district, Along witnesses a lot of activity throughout the day, mostly centred around the town square, which is where all the government offices are located. A quick walk led us to an enclosed space, where people were celebrating Durga puja. As a banner revealed, the puja was started way back in 1953 by Bengalis who mostly had come here as government officials. Over the years, this has become an occasion for all the people of the neighbourhood to assemble and make merry, brushing aside feelings of animosity or grudge that otherwise cloud the relationship between the tribals and the settlers. Interestingly, here in Arunachal, the idol has slight Mongoloid features and resembles the famed beauties of Upper Assam.

VII

The broad sweep of the mighty Brahmaputra valley came into view and, immediately after, came the checkpost. This was the last time we had to

get our ILPs stamped, that would proclaim our departure from Arunachal. From here we were to cross over to Silapathar, the border town in Assam and take the night bus to Guwahati. As the mid-afternoon heat licked the jeep's windows, I realised with a sudden bout of longing that the trip had come to an end. Sure, it had its share of uncertainties, the trials and tribualtions. But long after the grudges go to rest and quotidian concerns colour life, memory will occasionally fiddle with the snapshots in sepia, evoking the awe-inspiring beauty of a land filled with mist and mystery and a diminishing tribe of ever-warm and hospitable people.

Give me another trip to Arunachal any day!

Fact of the matter

The itinerary

Kolkata (by flight) ----> Dibrugarh (by boat across the Brahmaputra and then a 3-hr bus ride) -----> Pasighat (shared Sumo) ----> Yinkiong (shared Sumo) -----> Tuting (shared Sumo) ----> Yinkiong (shared Sumo) ----> Along (shared Sumo) --------> Silapathar (night bus of Green Valley bus service, fabulous) ------> Guwahati (flight) ----> Kolkata

Accomodation (all mid-range, 2010 rates)

Dibrugarh --- Hotel Devika (Rs 850)

Pasighat ----- Hotel Aane (Rs 900)

Yinkiong ---- Hotel Libang (the only-available decent accommodation, Rs 350)

Tuting ---- Inspection Bungalow PWD

Along --- Hotel Aagam (Rs 400)